Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty
Starter motor not rotating
- Starter motor defective
 - Battery voltage low
 - Relay not contacting or operating
 - Starter button not contacting
 - Wiring open or shorted
 - Ignition switch defective
 - Engine stop switch defective
 - Engine stop switch off \
 - Fuse blown
 
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over
- Starter motor clutch defective
 
Engine won’t turn over
- Valve seizure
 - Cylinder, piston seizure
 - Crankshaft seizure
 - Connecting rod small end seizure
 - Connecting rod big end seizure
 - Transmission gear or bearing seizure
 - Camshaft seizure
 - Kick starter return spring broken
 - Kick ratchet gear not engaging
 
No fuel flow
- No fuel in tank
 - Fuel tap turned off
 - Tank cap air vent obstructed
 - Fuel tap clogged
 - Fuel line clogged
 - Float valve clogged
 
Engine flooded
- Fuel level too high
 - Float valve worn or stuck open
 - Starting technique faulty (When flooded, kick with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine.)
 
No spark; spark weak
- Ignition switch not on
 - Engine stop switch turned off
 - Battery voltage low
 - Spark plug dirty, defective, or maladjusted
 - Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective
 - Spark plug cap not in good contact
 - Contact breaker points dirty or damaged
 - Contact breaker point gap maladjusted
 - Capacitor defective
 - Ignition coil defective
 - Ignition or engine stop switch shorted
 - Wiring shorted or open
 
Compression low
- Spark plug loose
 - Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
 - No valve clearance
 - Cylinder, piston worn
 - Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
 - Piston ring/land clearance excessive
 - Cylinder head gasket damaged
 - Cylinder head warped
 - Valve spring broken or weak
 - Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
 
Poor Running at Low Speed
Spark weak
- Battery voltage low
 - Spark plug dirty, defective, or maladjusted
 - Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective
 - Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
 - Incorrect spark plug heat range
 - Contact breaker points dirty or damaged
 - Contact breaker point gap maladjusted
 - Capacitor defective
 - Ignition coil defective
 
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
- Pilot air screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted
 - Pilot jet, or air passage clogged
 - Pilot jet bleed holes clogged
 - Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
 - Choke valve closed
 - Fuel level too high or too low
 - Fuel tank air vent obstructed
 - Carburetor holder loose
 - Air cleaner duct loose
 
Compression low
- Spark plug loose
 - Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
 - No valve clearance
 - Cylinder, piston worn
 - Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken or sticking)
 - Piston ring/land clearance excessive
 - Cylinder head gasket damaged
 - Cylinder head warped
 - Valve spring broken or weak
 - Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or
 - carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
 
Other
- Ignition timing maladjusted
 - Timing not advancing (spring broken or stretched)
 - Throttle valve doesn’t slide smoothly
 - Engine oil viscosity too high
 - Brakes dragging
 
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed
Firing incorrect
- Spark plug dirty, defective, or maladjusted
 - Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective
 - Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
 - Incorrect spark plug heat range
 - Contact breaker points dirty or damaged
 - Contact breaker point gap maladjusted
 - Capacitor defective
 - Ignition coil defective
 - Ignition timing maladjusted and or timing not advancing
 
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
- Main jet clogged or wrong size
 - Jet needle or needle jet worn
 - Jet needle clip in wrong position
 - Fuel level too high or too low
 - Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
 - Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
 - Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
 - Choke valve closed
 - Water or foreign matter in fuel
 - Carburetor holder loose
 - Air cleaner duct loose
 - Fuel tank air vent obstructed
 - Fuel tap clogged
 - Fuel line clogged
 
Compression low
- Spark plug loose
 - Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
 - No valve clearance
 - Cylinder, piston worn
 - Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
 - Piston ring/land clearance excessive
 - Cylinder head gasket damaged
 - Cylinder head warped
 - Valve spring broken or weak
 - Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
 
Knocking
- Ignition timing maladjusted
 - Carbon built up in combustion chamber
 - Fuel poor quality or incorrect
 - Incorrect spark plug heat range
 
Miscellaneous
- Throttle valve won’t fully open
 - Throttle valve doesn’t slide smoothly
 - Ignition timing maladjusted
 - Timing not advancing
 - Brakes dragging
 - Clutch slipping
 
Overheating
- Spark plug dirty, damaged, or maladjusted
 - Incorrect spark plug heat range
 - Ignition timing maladjusted
 
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
- Main jet clogged
 - Fuel level too low
 - Carburetor holder loose
 - Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
 - Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
 - Air cleaner clogged
 
Compression high
- Carbon built up in combustion chamber
 
Engine load faulty
- Clutch slipping
 - Engine oil level too high
 - Engine oil viscosity too high
 - Brakes dragging
 
Lubrication inadequate
- Engine oil level too low
 - Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
 
Clutch Operation Faulty
Clutch slipping
- No clutch lever play
 - Friction plates worn or warped
 - Steel plates worn or warped
 - Clutch springs broken or weak
 - Clutch release maladjusted
 - Clutch cable maladjusted
 - Clutch inner cable catching
 - Clutch release mechanism defective
 - Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
 
Clutch not disengaging properly
- Clutch lever play excessive
 - Clutch plates warped or too rough
 - Clutch spring tension uneven
 - Engine oil deteriorated
 - Engine oil viscosity too high
 - Engine oil level too high
 - Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
 - Clutch release mechanism defective
 
Gear Shifting Faulty
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return
- Clutch not disengaging
 - Shift fork(s) bent or seized
 - Gear(s) stuck on the shaft
 - Shift return spring weak or broken
 - Shift mechanism arm spring broken
 
Jumps out of gear
- Shift fork(s) worn
 - Gear groove(s) worn
 - Gear dogs, dog holes, and/or dog recesses worn
 - Shift drum groove(s).worn
 - Shift drum positioning pin spring weak or broken
 - Shift fork pin(s) worn
 - External shift mechanism arm spring weak
 - Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
 
Over shifts
- Shift drum positioning pin spring weak or broken
 
Abnormal Engine Noise
Knocking
- Ignition timing maladjusted
 - Carbon built up in combustion chamber
 - Fuel poor quality or incorrect
 - Incorrect spark plug heat range
 - Overheating
 
- Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
 - Cylinder, piston worn
 - Connecting rod bent
 - Piston pin, piston holes worn
 
Valve noise
- Valve clearance incorrect
 - Valve spring broken or weak
 
Other noise
- Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
 - Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
 - Piston ring(s) worn, broken, or stuck
 - Piston seizure damage
 - Cylinder head gasket leaking
 - Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
 - Crankshaft run out excessive
 - Engine mounts loose
 - Crankshaft bearings worn
 - Camshaft chain tensioner defective
 - Camshaft chain, sprocket, guides worn
 - Camshaft chain requires adjustment
 - Starter motor chain worn
 - Loose dynamo flywheel
 
Abnormal Drive Train Noise
Clutch noise
- Clutch damping rubber deteriorated
 - Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
 
Transmission noise
- Bearings worn
 - Transmission gears worn or chipped
 - Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
 - Engine oil insufficient or too thin
 - Kick ratchet gear not properly disengaging from kick gear
 
Drive chain noise
- Drive chain adjusted improperly
 - Chain worn
 - Rear and/or engine sprocket(s) worn
 - Chain lubrication insufficient
 - Rear wheel misaligned
 
Download Kawasaki KZ 200 Manual Service Book
